![]() Some times the key would turn into pos 3 far enough to engage starter but after removal of the key from ignition, it would not turn again even to pos 1. I wanted to avoid having multiple keys and tried re-using old barrel with original key in the new ignition lock assembly - that didn’t work out well. So I ordered ignition lock, barrel and a key, got it in about a week from Pelican Parts. When i removed old barrel and tried turn the key with a flat head screwdriver while holding the key-fob in the ring - bam, engine started. The old ignition lock assembly with key barrel wouldn’t go far enough to engage starter in pos 3. The culprit of all these issues and “workarounds” that PO did before was… a broken ignition lock assembly! I assume it was easier to install and wire a push-start button and super glue transponder to the ring instead of just replacing lock assembly… go figure Sorry for such wordy post and I hope some one can chime in! This forum helped me so much already with the restoration of the SLK, it's amazing!Ĭlick to expand.… and yes, the issue is resolved! As soon as transponder went into key-fob case, i was able to lock/unlock the car right after shutting off the engine Supercharger and intake piping is out too. I am sorting out the fuel pump and fuel filter and the moment, as well as putting exhaust manifold and the entire exhaust back in so I won't be able to put back the battery just yet. I found this thread but couldn't see any pictures displaying pulse module relay connectors in the fuse box. The alarm "ball" under the from cowling appeared to be new and battery was alive, as I checked it in the original thread. The original unit had signs of water inside and pretty bad oxidation on all connectors. ![]() ![]() It did fix the issue with the dome lights.
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